The light meter on your camera measures how much reflected light is from the scene you are shooting. It then uses this data to calculate the optimal exposure settings for the scene - shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
Ideally, your camera's gray level should average at 18%. This is somewhere in the middle between dark shadows or bright highlights.
Camera Meter
The camera meter allows you control exposure settings by using technology embedded in digital cameras. It measures the amount and color of the light in the scene. Then it indicates the appropriate combination of shutter speeds, apertures, ISO to achieve the best possible image.
This information is used to determine the best exposure setting for your camera based upon the metering method you select. These metering modes are Matrix, spot and center-weighted.
Matrix is the most used mode of metering for general lighting conditions, such as landscape photography and portraits. This mode works well when there is good lighting. However, it can prove confusing if there are dramatic changes in the lighting.
Incident metering, which directly measures the amount of light hitting your subject, is much more accurate than reflective meters. The reflective reading feature on most handheld incident meters is also available, but it only works when your subject has a lot of reflectivity like white bridal gowns.
You might consider investing in a handheld incident meter, such as the Sekonic L-308XU. This will give consistent and accurate results in even contrasting scenes.
Center-Weighted Metering
Center-weighted metering is a type of metering mode that works by combining matrix metering and spot/partial metering. It evaluates the whole scene and gives more weight for the central part of the frame.
This is useful metering mode if you have backlit subject and need to ensure that they are properly exposed. In this example, you would use center-weighted, average metering to ensure that the subject was properly exposed even if there was too much light behind them.
When you are shooting portraits, the subject will take up most of your frame. This is another common use of center weighted metering. Because it gives the most weight to the person and not the frame's edges, the center-weighted mode is great for this.
Spot-metering is another popular metering method that only examines the area of the focus point. The camera will then take the reading of that area and determine the exposure for the image, ignoring any other areas in the scene. This mode can be very useful, but is less precise than other metering options.
Evaluative meters
Evaluative Metering is the default mode for most Canon cameras. It utilizes Canon's 63 metering zone iFCL metering sensors to measure the brightness of a subject across all metering regions. This takes into account colors, focus and other factors, then uses a metering algorithm determine the appropriate combination of aperture, shutter speed, ISO to make an exposure.
The camera's metering algorithm is very fast. This means that the camera can do an exposure calculation in just a fraction of second, right before you press the shutter button. However, evaluative metering has one drawback: it can struggle to measure the light when the scene features strong contrasts and if you're taking photos of dark objects with bright areas in the frame.
This can be corrected by choosing from several metering modes. Spot measurement, for example, only evaluates light around your subject.
A third metering mode called center-weighted meters evaluates the entire picture, but doesn't consider the focal point. Instead, the metering mode emphasizes the exposure towards middle of the image. This metering mode is particularly useful when you're shooting portraits or other types of images where the main subject matters more than the background, such as on a street shoot.
FAQ
Should I take up photography as a hobby or a profession?
Photography is a great way of capturing memories and sharing them with loved ones. Photography also lets you learn more about the world around.
There are many resources online that will help you take better photos if you're interested in this topic.
Consider taking classes at your local community college or art school. This will enable you to make connections with other photographers who are able to give valuable feedback.
What Lenses Should I Use
Beginners often ask, "What lens should I purchase?" This is a difficult decision because there are so many options.
The good news? You don’t have to purchase a completely new lens for every new camera you buy. Instead, you can buy additional lenses later.
For starters, here are three types of lenses you might want to consider.
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Wide Angle Lens (14mm - 24mm): These lenses give you a wide angle of view, allowing you to capture more of your subject. You can zoom in and not lose image quality.
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Normal/Standard Zoom Lens (28mm to 70mm) : These lenses allow you the flexibility of changing focal lengths, while still maintaining high quality images.
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Telephoto Zoom Lens (70mm-200mm): These lenses can be used to capture distant subjects. They allow you to focus on your subject despite the fact that they may seem small in the frame.
You can also combine these lenses to create different effects. To capture close-up details, you can switch between a normal and telephoto lens.
Do I Need A Tripod?
This is one question that everyone wants to know. The truth is that a tripod isn't always necessary, but it can come in handy.
It can be used to steady your camera while you take slow shutter speeds pictures. A tripod can be very useful if you want to photograph landscapes and stationary subjects.
On the other hand, if you're photographing moving subjects such as sports or people, using a tripod can cause blurriness. What are the best ways to determine which situations you need a tripod for?
A tripod is useful for any situation where you want to photograph fast action or stationary subjects. Examples include:
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Sports
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People
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Landscapes
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Close-ups
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Macro shots
This test will help you determine if you need a tripod. Keep your camera still, and then look through the viewfinder. A tripod is necessary if you notice blurred lines or movement.
A tripod won't make any difference if there is no blurring.
If you do decide on a tripod purchase, these are some things to remember.
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Make sure your tripod has smooth legs. This will stop unwanted vibrations shaking your camera.
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Make sure you choose a sturdy tripod. Some tripods may be made from plastic, which can make them less durable. You should opt for a steel tripod.
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A remote release is a great option. Remote control allows you to remotely control your camera. It can automatically fire the shutter when you press the button.
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Look for a tripod that has a 360-degree rotating head. It makes it easy to position your camera horizontally or vertically.
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Remember that tripods can be expensive. Expect to pay around $100-200. However, you'll get lots of value for your dollar.
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Accessories like memory cards and filters should not be forgotten.
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Check your local stores before buying online. Many retailers offer free shipping.
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You can read customer reviews to see what people think of a product.
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Ask family members and friends who own similar products.
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To learn more about customer experiences, you can visit forums and message board.
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User reviews can be found online.
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Amazon.com offers the ability to search for prices and view customer feedback.
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View photo galleries to see the different uses of tripods by photographers.
Statistics
- That's the easiest way to get blurry photos 100% of the time. (photographylife.com)
- While I cannot prove that all of those spots were not sensor dust, the photo was taken during a heavy snowstorm…so I guess that 99.8% of the spots are snowflakes. (bhphotovideo.com)
- By March 2014, about 3 million were purchased monthly, about 30 percent of the peak sales total. (en.wikipedia.org)
- There are people out there who will pick at flaws they can only see in 100% crops of your photos. (wikihow.com)
External Links
How To
How to capture pictures under low lighting conditions
Low-light Photography is when you take photos in dimly lit or dark environments. It requires special equipment. The main challenges are controlling exposure, white-balance, and sharpness. Low light photography can be divided into two categories: ambient and flash. Flash photography is best when there is enough light. However, if there's not enough natural light around you, you'll need to use flash. A flash might be necessary if you are photographing a subject indoors and outside. Try shooting at night, during the moonlit hours, if you don't need a flash. This will give you some beautiful shadows and colors. Another option is to shoot during twilight. Twilight happens when the sun has set but there is still daylight.
Also, you might want to try long exposures. Long exposures let you capture images even after the shutter has been open several minutes. The shutter must be closed so that the camera only records light that hits the sensor. The light that falls onto the sensor during a long exposure continues to be recorded. Because the shutter was closed, no new light enters your lens. This means that you will not see any movement. To ensure clear images, disable any autofocus and exposure settings. Make sure to adjust the ISO setting before starting to shoot. A 200 ISO setting gives you greater control over how dark or bright your image looks. Next, click quickly on the shutter button to capture the shot. This will cause the shutter to close completely. Keep the shutter button pressed down until the last second. To prevent additional light entering the camera, hold the shutter button down. Once you have taken the image, wait for a few seconds before you release it. This allows the camera's to process the image. While the image is processing, you can see your photos on your computer monitor. Once you are satisfied, save them on your computer.